Quick symptom overview
Maytag gas dryers tumble without heat when the silicon carbide igniter opens, the gas valve split coils (WP279834) fail resistance checks, or the radiant flame sensor remains open.
The ignition sequence operates on 120 VAC: L1 → timer / control board → thermal fuse (3392519) → high-limit thermostat → radiant flame sensor (338906, closed at ~0 Ω) → igniter (279838, ~50–500 Ω) → Neutral. As the igniter glows red (~1800°F), radiant heat causes the flame sensor to pop open. Opening the sensor breaks the direct igniter shunt and routes current through the booster and secondary gas valve coils (WP279834), pulling the valve plunger open to release natural gas or LP for burner ignition.
Igniter glows once then shuts off with no flame: Worn gas valve solenoid coils whose copper windings open up when warm (~1300–1400 Ω cold, open ∞ Ω when hot). Igniter never glows: Blown thermal fuse (~0 Ω normal, ∞ Ω open), open igniter, or tripped high-limit thermostat. Related no-start / electrical motor checks: Maytag / Whirlpool dryer not starting. General heating circuit logic: dryer heating element vs thermal fuse. Parent service details: Maytag dryer repair services.
Safety: Shut off the gas supply shutoff valve and disconnect 120 VAC power before removing the lower front inspection port or burner housing. Gas leaks can cause explosion. Never use an open flame to check for gas leaks.
Step-by-step diagnostic hierarchy
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Observe the burner through the inspection window — With power connected and gas on, start a Timed Dry cycle on high heat. Look through the lower front port or window.
- Pattern A: Igniter never glows red → Thermal fuse, door switch, timer contact, or open igniter.
- Pattern B: Igniter glows bright orange/red for 15–30 seconds, clicks, then shuts off without flame → Failed gas valve coils (WP279834) or bad flame sensor.
- Pattern C: Flame ignites for 1 cycle, burns for 1 minute, then dies and never relights → Thermally failing gas valve solenoid coils.
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Isolate power and shut off gas supply — Unplug the 120 VAC power cord and turn the manual gas shutoff valve perpendicular to the gas pipe.
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Check thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat (Ohms) — Access the blower housing and burner duct. Disconnect wire leads and measure continuity at room temperature:
- Thermal fuse (3392519): Must read ~0 Ω. If open (∞ Ω), replace fuse and clear vent duct.
- High-limit thermostat (279834): Must read ~0 Ω.
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Inspect and measure the silicon carbide igniter — Disconnect the two-pin harness plug from the igniter (279838). Measure resistance across the igniter leads:
- Normal igniter: 50–500 Ω.
- Blown igniter: ∞ Ω (open circuit or visible hairline crack).
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Test the radiant flame sensor — Unplug the two spade connectors from the flame sensor mounted on the burner tube (338906):
- Cold sensor: Must read ~0 Ω (closed circuit).
- If sensor reads ∞ Ω at room temperature, the igniter circuit remains open and will never glow.
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Measure gas valve solenoid coil resistance (WP279834 coil kit) — Disconnect the 2-pin harness from the secondary coil and the 3-pin harness from the main/booster coil:
- Secondary 2-terminal coil: Terminals 1 to 2 must read 1220–1400 Ω.
- Main / booster 3-terminal coil:
- Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 (Booster coil): ~1365 Ω
- Terminal 1 to Terminal 3 (Hold / main coil): ~560 Ω
- Terminal 2 to Terminal 3: ~1220 Ω
- If any pin combination reads ∞ Ω or far outside specification, replace both coils using kit WP279834.
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Verify 120 VAC heat call at burner harness (Live Test) — If igniter and safeties read normal but igniter never receives power, measure voltage across the igniter harness during a live Timed Dry call:
- Expected voltage: 120 VAC.
- 0 VAC indicates open timer contacts, broken wire harness, or blown thermal fuse.
Multimeter and safety checks
Disconnect 120 VAC power before performing resistance (Ohms) tests on isolated components.
| Component / Test | Setup & Meter Range | Expected Normal Value | Fault / Failure Mode |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gas Supply Voltage | Live 120 VAC outlet test | 120 VAC (±10%) | 0 VAC (tripped breaker or dead receptacle) |
| Igniter (279838) | Isolated leads, 200–2000 Ω range | 50–500 Ω | ∞ Ω (broken element or hairline fracture) |
| Flame Sensor (338906) | Isolated spade terminals, 200 Ω range | ~0 Ω (closed at room temp) | ∞ Ω (sensor stuck open; igniter will not glow) |
| 2-Terminal Secondary Coil | Isolated 2-pin connector, 2 kΩ range | 1220–1400 Ω | ∞ Ω or >2000 Ω (open coil winding; no gas) |
| 3-Terminal Booster Coil (Pins 1-2) | Isolated 3-pin connector, 2 kΩ range | ~1365 Ω | ∞ Ω (booster coil open; valve won’t pull open) |
| 3-Terminal Hold Coil (Pins 1-3) | Isolated 3-pin connector, 2 kΩ range | ~560 Ω | ∞ Ω (hold coil open; flame dies instantly) |
| Thermal Fuse (3392519) | Isolated leads, 200 Ω range | ~0 Ω | ∞ Ω (open fuse; cuts 120 VAC heating circuit) |
| High-Limit Thermostat | Isolated leads, 200 Ω range | ~0 Ω | ∞ Ω (open safety thermostat from overheating) |
Root cause vs repair breakdown
| Observable Symptom | Root Cause / Faulty Part | Corrective Repair Action |
|---|---|---|
| Igniter glows red, clicks, but no flame lights | Worn gas valve coils (WP279834) or open secondary coil | Replace dual/triple gas valve coils with kit WP279834 |
| Igniter never glows, console lights operate | Blown blower thermal fuse (3392519) or open igniter | Replace thermal fuse or igniter 279838; clear exhaust vent |
| Flame lights for 60 seconds, then dies for rest of cycle | Gas valve coils opening when hot | Replace gas valve coil kit WP279834 |
| Igniter stays glowing red continuously, never shuts off | Flame sensor (338906) failed closed or bad gas valve | Replace radiant flame sensor 338906 |
| No voltage at igniter, all safeties show ~0 Ω | Faulty timer contact or electronic control board relay | Replace timer assembly or central control board |
FAQ
Why does my Maytag gas dryer igniter glow red but not ignite gas?
When the silicon carbide igniter glows red but no flame ignites, the radiant flame sensor has opened the circuit or the gas valve split coils (2-terminal / 3-terminal) have open internal windings (~1300–1400 Ω required). Worn coils expand and fail once hot.
How many Ohms should Maytag gas dryer valve coils read?
On standard Whirlpool/Maytag 2-coil gas valve assemblies (WP279834 kit), terminals 1-to-2 on the 3-terminal booster/hold coil read ~1365 Ω, terminals 1-to-3 read ~560 Ω, and terminals 2-to-3 read ~1220 Ω. The 2-terminal secondary coil reads ~1220–1400 Ω.
What voltage goes to a Maytag gas dryer igniter?
The igniter receives 120 VAC from L1 through the timer/control board, thermal fuse, and high-limit thermostat. Once the igniter reaches ~1800°F, the radiant flame sensor (~0 Ω cold) heats up and opens, redirecting 120 VAC to the gas valve coils to release gas.
When to schedule professional service
If gas smell persists inside the drum, gas pressure regulator testing is required, or internal gas pipe fittings need leak checking, stop operation and shut off the main gas line immediately. Schedule Maytag gas dryer repair service →
FAQ · Family-owned Port St. Lucie
Frequently Asked Questions About Maytag Dryer No Heat
Why does my Maytag gas dryer igniter glow red but not ignite gas?
When the silicon carbide igniter glows red but no flame ignites, the radiant flame sensor has opened the circuit or the gas valve split coils (2-terminal / 3-terminal) have open internal windings (~1300–1400 Ω required). Worn coils expand and fail once hot.
How many Ohms should Maytag gas dryer valve coils read?
On standard Whirlpool/Maytag 2-coil gas valve assemblies (WP279834 kit), terminals 1-to-2 on the 3-terminal booster/hold coil read ~1365 Ω, terminals 1-to-3 read ~560 Ω, and terminals 2-to-3 read ~1220 Ω. The 2-terminal secondary coil reads ~1220–1400 Ω.
What voltage goes to a Maytag gas dryer igniter?
The igniter receives 120 VAC from L1 through the timer/control board, thermal fuse, and high-limit thermostat. Once the igniter reaches ~1800°F, the radiant flame sensor (~0 Ω cold) heats up and opens, redirecting 120 VAC to the gas valve coils to release gas.