Quick symptom overview
GE Profile (PDT, GDT, CDT, and related built-ins) posts FTD when the tub does not empty in the allowed drain time. Two parts sit at the same outlet: the drain pump (120 VAC motor + impeller) and a one-way check valve (rubber flapper or ball in the pump housing or hose barb).
Pump failed: impeller locked on glass/seed, winding open, no 120 VAC from the control. Check valve failed closed: motor runs, impeller free, almost no flow. Check valve failed open: tub empties, then dirty sink water or pump discharge returns. Hard Treasure Coast water scales that flapper shut more often than it burns a winding.
Generic light-flash drain notes: dishwasher not draining, flashing lights. Whirlpool-family sump work is similar but not the same pump: KitchenAid dishwasher not draining.
Safety: Open the dishwasher breaker before pulling the filter, reaching the sump, or dropping the lower access panel. Glass in the sump cuts. Do not chemical-snake the tub. If the junction box or pump connector is wet, stop.
Step-by-step diagnostic hierarchy
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Capture FTD and residual depth — Photograph the display. Measure standing water at the filter. Run Cancel/Drain once and listen: hum + no drop, silence, or drain then refill from the hose.
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Prove the house drain — Run the disposal and the sink. Slow shared drain is not an FTD pump. Confirm the disposal dishwasher knockout is out on new installs.
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Filter and sump — Remove the fine and coarse filters. Clear labels, glass, and grease from the sump cover. A packed tower mimics a dead pump.
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Air gap / high loop — Countertop air gap flapper (if equipped) or hose peak above the sink rim. Pinched hose behind the unit is still the cheapest FTD.
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Impeller through the sump — Power off. Turn the drain impeller. Locked = mechanical pump/chopper. Free = go to ohms and the check valve.
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Check valve at the pump outlet — Disconnect the drain hose at the pump (towels). Look into the barb: flapper should open downstream with light air/water and seat closed the other way. Mineral-glued shut = FTD with a good motor. Torn or missing = backflow.
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Electrical prove-out — Pump winding ohms, then 120 VAC during Cancel/Drain with the door latched. Board last.
Multimeter and safety checks
Power off, pump connector isolated, unless the row says live.
| Test | Setup | Typical result | Fail |
|---|---|---|---|
| Line voltage | Junction box or receptacle | 108–132 VAC | Correct supply first |
| Drain pump winding | Isolated pump pins | 15–40 Ω (use the tech sheet; many Profile pumps sit ~20–30 Ω) | ∞ Ω open motor; ~0 Ω shorted |
| Pump to ground | Either pin to laminated housing | ∞ Ω | Continuity = shorted pump |
| Impeller | Hand, power off | Free, slight magnet cogging | Locked: glass/seed; replace or clear pump |
| Check valve | Hose off pump outlet | Opens to drain, seats against backflow | Stuck closed: FTD, motor good. Stuck open: water returns |
| Drain command voltage | Live, Cancel/Drain, door latched | 120 VAC at pump for the drain window | No voltage: latch/control. Voltage + no flow + free impeller: check valve or hose |
| Door latch | Ohms, latch closed vs open | Changes state | Open latch = silent pump |
Do not jumper 120 VAC to the pump on the floor with the hose off without controlling splash. Do not run the wash motor as a “drain test.”
Root cause vs repair
| Finding | Fault | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Filter packed, pump unused | Soil, not FTD hardware | Clean; retest Cancel/Drain |
| Knockout still in disposal | Install error | Remove plug; clamp hose |
| Impeller locked or winding open | Drain pump | Replace pump; inspect check in the old housing |
| 15–40 Ω, 120 VAC, free impeller, no flow | Check valve closed | Clean/replace check or pump assembly if the valve is integral |
| Drains then water returns | Check valve open or no high loop | Replace check; raise loop / service air gap |
| No 120 VAC, latch good | Control / harness | Repair harness then board |
| Pump seal wet underneath | Housing leak | Replace pump; dry base; do not confuse with Bosch E15 |
On many Profile platforms the check is part of the pump. If the flapper is not sold separately, replace the pump assembly rather than leaving a scaled valve in a new motor.
FAQ
What does FTD mean on a GE Profile dishwasher?
Failed to drain. The board still saw water after the drain window. Filter, check valve, pump, hose, or shared sink line—not automatically a new UI.
How do I tell a stuck check valve from a bad drain pump?
Good ohms, free impeller, 120 VAC, no flow → valve stuck closed. Open winding or locked impeller → pump. Water leaves then comes back → valve stuck open or missing high loop.
Can hard water in Port St. Lucie cause FTD?
Yes. Scale welds the outlet flapper shut. The motor can be electrically perfect.
Should I pour drain cleaner in the dishwasher?
No. It damages seals and will not free a check valve. Unplug and clean mechanically.
When to schedule professional service
Book service when FTD remains after a clean filter, proven knockout, and free impeller; when windings are open; when the check will not seat; or when the base is wet at the pump. Schedule a dishwasher diagnostic →
FAQ · Family-owned Port St. Lucie
Frequently Asked Questions About GE Profile Dishwasher FTD
What does FTD mean on a GE Profile dishwasher?
Failed to drain. The control still saw water in the tub after the drain window. That can be a packed filter, a stuck check valve, a dead or jammed drain pump, a disposal knockout, or a shared kitchen drain backup—not automatically a new control board.
How do I tell a stuck check valve from a bad drain pump?
If the pump impeller turns freely, windings read about 15–40 Ω, and you measure 120 VAC during Cancel/Drain but almost no water leaves, the outlet check valve is likely stuck shut. If the impeller is locked or windings are open, replace the pump. If water leaves then floods back, the check valve is stuck open or the high loop is missing.
Can hard water in Port St. Lucie cause FTD?
Yes. Scale and grease glue the rubber flapper or ball check at the pump outlet. The motor can be electrically good and still push against a closed valve. Clean or replace the check; do not keep swapping pumps.
Should I pour drain cleaner in the dishwasher?
No. Caustic cleaner wrecks seals and does not free a pump check valve. Unplug, clean the filter and sump, then test the pump and check valve.